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Bio-Based Emulsification

Bio-based emulsification technology, such as Montanov™, utilizes plant-derived glucolipids to create stable, eco-friendly emulsions for skincare, enhancing texture and hydration. By leveraging renewable ingredients like glucose and fatty alcohols through green chemistry, it supports natural formulations while minimizing environmental impact.

DESCRIPTION

Bio-based emulsification technology involves the development of emulsifiers from natural, renewable sources to create stable oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, prioritizing sustainability and biocompatibility. This approach replaces synthetic emulsifiers with bio-based alternatives, aligning with clean beauty and eco-friendly skincare practices, as demonstrated by Montanov™ 202, Montanov™ 68, and Montanov™ L from Seppic in your list.

Montanov Variants Overview

Montanov™ 202: A non-ionic O/W emulsifier composed of glucolipids, combining glucose (from corn, wheat, or manioc) with fatty alcohols (from rapeseed colza oil). It’s palm oil-free, approved by COSMOS and Natrue, and produced via green chemistry through esterification, ensuring biodegradability. It forms liquid crystal structures that mimic the skin’s lipid barrier, offering a light, matte finish with long-lasting hydration. [Ref web ID: 2]


Montanov™ 68 (also known as Vegetal): Another non-ionic O/W emulsifier, with the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside, derived from plant sources like coconut or palm (covered by a Mass Balance RSPO certificate for sustainable palm sourcing). It’s produced through green chemistry, forming a lamellar structure that mimics the skin’s lipid layers, providing a rich, creamy texture. It’s ECOCERT, COSMOS, and Natrue approved, making it suitable for natural formulations. [Ref web ID: 1] [Ref web ID: 4]

Montanov™ L: A versatile O/W emulsifier of natural origin (INCI: C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside), also glucolipid-based, derived from vegetable sources. It creates a range of textures from sprays to butters, promoting liquid crystals for enhanced stability and moisturizing effects. It’s preservative-free, synthesized without solvents, and approved by ECOCERT, COSMOS, and Natrue, emphasizing its eco-friendly profile.

Emulsification Process

The technology relies on glucolipids to form liquid crystal structures that stabilize emulsions by reducing interfacial tension and preventing droplet coalescence. For all three Montanov variants, the process involves dispersing the emulsifier in the oil phase, heating both oil and water phases to 75–80°C, and mixing with high-shear homogenization (e.g., 500–1000 rpm) to form the emulsion. Montanov™ 202 creates light, matte emulsions, Montanov™ 68 produces richer, creamier textures, and Montanov™ L offers versatility for sprayable to thick formulations, all while maintaining a non-greasy feel. Adding stabilizers like xanthan gum (e.g., 0.2%) can enhance stability, particularly for Montanov™ 68 and Montanov™ L. [Ref web ID: 2] [Ref web ID: 4]


Sustainability Features
The production of these Montanov emulsifiers emphasizes eco-friendliness:

Renewable Sourcing: Ingredients like glucose (from corn, wheat, manioc) and fatty alcohols (from rapeseed, coconut, or RSPO-certified palm) are plant-based, reducing reliance on petrochemicals.
Green Chemistry: Esterification avoids harsh solvents, minimizing waste and energy use, as seen in the solvent-free synthesis of Montanov™ L.

Biodegradability: All three emulsifiers are biodegradable, ensuring minimal environmental impact compared to synthetic emulsifiers like Triton X-100, which are not eco-friendly.

Certifications: ECOCERT, COSMOS, and Natrue approvals for all variants confirm their alignment with natural and sustainable standards, with Montanov™ 202 additionally being palm oil-free.

Application in Your List
Montanov™ 202, Montanov™ 68, and Montanov™ L are used in your skincare formulations to stabilize O/W emulsions, enhancing the delivery and texture of natural actives like cranberry liquid extract, Laminaria extracts, and white rose. Their bio-based nature complements Asteria Organic Skincare’s commitment to natural, eco-friendly products, allowing for a range of textures from light lotions to rich creams without synthetic additives.

Comparison to Other Methods
Unlike microbial bioemulsifiers (e.g., Emulsan from Acinetobacter), which face scalability and pathogenicity challenges, or membrane emulsification, which requires specialized equipment, bio-based emulsification technology offers a practical, plant-based solution. It prioritizes sustainability and compatibility with natural skincare, making it versatile for clean beauty formulations.

BENEFITS

Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Production

Using renewable plant-based materials and green chemistry, this technology minimizes environmental impact, ensuring biodegradability and supporting Asteria’s eco-conscious ethos with certifications like ECOCERT and COSMOS for all three Montanov variants.

Enhanced Skin Hydration and Texture

The liquid crystal structures formed by Montanov™ 202, Montanov™ 68, and Montanov™ L mimic the skin’s lipid barrier, providing long-lasting hydration (up to 5 hours, as noted for Montanov™ 68) and a range of textures—from Montanov™ 202’s light, matte finish to Montanov™ 68’s rich, creamy feel and Montanov™ L’s versatile spray-to-butter consistency.

Compatibility with Natural Formulations

These bio-based emulsifiers integrate seamlessly with natural ingredients in your list (e.g., sea buckthorn, Laminaria extracts), supporting clean beauty standards and ensuring formulation stability without synthetic additives, as seen with their ability to emulsify various oils (mineral, vegetable, silicone).

Improved Emulsion Stability

The technology prevents droplet coalescence, ensuring long-term stability and consistency across diverse skincare products, enhancing shelf life and user experience, with Montanov™ L noted for its versatility in stabilizing sprayable to thick textures.

Gentle and Biocompatible for Sensitive Skin
Derived from natural sources, these emulsifiers are hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic (e.g., Montanov™ 202 is noted for suitability in sensitive skin and baby products), reducing irritation risks and making them ideal for Asteria’s sensitive skin-focused formulations.

SOURCE

Canada