Bio-Fermentation

Bio-fermentation in skincare uses bacteria (Lactobacillus Ferment), yeast (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate), and plant cells (PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica) to create bioactives like peptides and antioxidants, enhancing skin benefits like hydration and anti-aging through methods like microbial and plant cell fermentation in bioreactors.
DESCRIPTION
What is Bio-Fermentation in Skincare?
Bio-fermentation is a biotechnological process that uses living organisms—such as microorganisms (bacteria, yeast, fungi), enzymes, or plant cells—to transform raw materials (substrates) into bioactive compounds. In skincare, bio-fermentation enhances the potency, bioavailability, and skin compatibility of ingredients, producing metabolites like peptides, amino acids, organic acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. The process is often marketed as a sustainable, natural method, aligning with clean beauty trends.
Key Features of Bio-Fermentation in Skincare
Sustainability: Uses renewable substrates (e.g., plant-based sugars) and reduces reliance on chemical synthesis.
Enhanced Bioavailability: Breaks down complex molecules into smaller, more absorbable forms for better skin penetration.
Natural Actives: Produces skin-friendly compounds like lactic acid or antioxidants that mimic the skin’s natural processes.
Microbiome Support: Fermented ingredients often support the skin’s microbiota, improving barrier function and reducing inflammation.
General Process of Bio-Fermentation
Selection of Organism: Microorganisms (e.g., Lactobacillus, Saccharomyces), enzymes, or plant cells are chosen based on the desired metabolites.
Substrate Preparation: A nutrient-rich medium (e.g., sugars, plant extracts, peptides) is provided as the raw material for fermentation.
Fermentation Conditions: The process occurs in bioreactors under controlled conditions:
Temperature: Typically 25–37°C, depending on the organism.
pH: Usually 4–7, optimized for microbial growth.
Oxygen: Aerobic (with oxygen) or anaerobic (without oxygen), depending on the organism.
Metabolite Production: The organisms metabolize the substrate, producing bioactives (e.g., lactic acid, peptides, antioxidants).
Filtration and Purification: The mixture is filtered to remove microbial cells or debris, leaving a bioactive ferment filtrate or extract.
Stabilization: The final product is stabilized (e.g., with natural preservatives or pH adjustments) for use in skincare formulations.
Different Methods of Bio-Fermentation in Skincare
Bio-fermentation in skincare can be categorized based on the type of organism or biological agent used. Below are the primary methods, with examples from your list where applicable:
1. Microbial Fermentation
This is the most common bio-fermentation method in skincare, using microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, or fungi to produce bioactives.
Bacterial Fermentation
Organism: Bacteria such as Lactobacillus or Streptococcus zooepidemicus.
Process: Bacteria are cultured in a medium (e.g., glucose, peptides) under anaerobic or microaerobic conditions. They metabolize the substrate, producing metabolites like organic acids or polysaccharides.
Examples from Your List:
Lactobacillus Ferment: Lactobacillus bacteria ferment a nutrient medium, producing lactic acid, peptides, and antimicrobial compounds that soothe skin and balance microbiota.
Hyaluronic Acid ULMW Less Than 0.8, 1.0: Streptococcus zooepidemicus ferments glucose to produce hyaluronic acid, which is then hydrolyzed into ultra-low molecular weight fragments for deep hydration.
Properties: Soothing, hydrating, and microbiome-supporting.
Yeast Fermentation
Organism: Yeasts like Galactomyces or Saccharomyces.
Process: Yeasts are cultured in a sugar-rich medium under aerobic conditions, breaking down substrates into amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidants.
Examples from Your List:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: Galactomyces yeast ferments a nutrient medium, yielding amino acids and antioxidants that brighten and hydrate skin.
FSS Resveratrol BioFerment: Saccharomyces yeast ferments resveratrol, enhancing its solubility and antioxidant properties for anti-aging benefits.
Properties: Brightening, antioxidant, and texture-improving.
Fungal Fermentation
Organism: Fungi like Aspergillus (less common in skincare but used in some Asian formulations).
Process: Fungi are grown on substrates like rice or soybeans, producing enzymes and metabolites such as kojic acid (for brightening).
Examples: Not explicitly in your list, but fungal fermentation is used in products like fermented rice water (common in K-beauty).
Properties: Brightening and exfoliating.
2. Plant Cell Fermentation
This method uses plant stem cells or tissues cultured in bioreactors to produce bioactives, often for anti-aging or protective effects.
Organism: Plant cells (e.g., from apples, orchids, or roses).
Process: Plant cells are cultured in a liquid medium with nutrients (e.g., sugars, growth factors) in bioreactors. The cells multiply and produce secondary metabolites like antioxidants or growth factors, which are then extracted.
Example from Your List:
PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica: Apple stem cells from the Malus Domestica variety are fermented in bioreactors, producing antioxidants and growth factors that protect skin stem cells and delay aging.
Properties: Anti-aging, regenerative, and protective.
3. Enzymatic Fermentation
This method uses enzymes (often derived from microorganisms) to break down substrates into smaller, more bioavailable forms. While not always classified as "fermentation" in the traditional sense, it’s often included under bio-fermentation in skincare.
Agent: Enzymes (e.g., hyaluronidase, proteases).
Process: Enzymes are added to a substrate (e.g., hyaluronic acid, proteins) to catalyze its breakdown into smaller fragments. This can be a secondary step after microbial fermentation.
Example from Your List:
Hyaluronic Acid ULMW Less Than 0.8, 1.0: After bacterial fermentation produces hyaluronic acid, enzymes hydrolyze it into ultra-low molecular weight (ULMW) fragments for better skin penetration.
Properties: Enhanced penetration, hydration, and plumping.
4. Solid-State Fermentation (Less Common in Skincare)
This method involves fermenting a solid substrate (e.g., rice, soybeans) with microorganisms, often used in traditional Asian skincare practices.
Organism: Yeasts, bacteria, or fungi (e.g., Aspergillus oryzae in koji fermentation).
Process: Microorganisms are inoculated onto a solid substrate and incubated under controlled humidity and temperature, producing enzymes and metabolites.
Example: Not in your list, but fermented rice water (used in K-beauty) is made this way, producing amino acids and ferulic acid.
Properties: Brightening, exfoliating, and nourishing.
BENEFITS
Improved Bioavailability: Smaller molecules penetrate the skin more effectively (e.g., ULMW hyaluronic acid).
Natural Actives: Produces skin-compatible compounds like lactic acid, peptides, and antioxidants.
Microbiome Support: Fermented ingredients (e.g., Lactobacillus Ferment) promote a healthy skin microbiome.
Sustainability: Uses renewable substrates and reduces chemical synthesis, aligning with eco-friendly trends.
Gentle Exfoliation: Organic acids (e.g., lactic acid) provide mild exfoliation without irritation.
SOURCE
Canada